Not long now

Well, Tom came up to see us for a couple of days and it was really good to see him although time passed too quickly. He flew into Inverness then caught a taxi from the airport to the railway station, now can you believe this?? The taxi driver is the brother in law of a guy I used to work with at Solihull about  15 years ago and I know both his sister and mother!! Spooky or what.

Tom enjoyed his time here and was taking loads of photos. We went out for a good meal and had a couple of decent walks and Jo took him into Smoo Cave whilst I was at work.

Life on the Cape has slowed down and the numbers of visitors has fallen, additionally the visitors are turning up at lunchtime (not that we have lunch) rather than in the morning which means that we should be working later but the tourists stop mid afternoon- all very strange.

We have got gales forecast from Friday lunchtime til Monday evening so we will have to see if work is on, although John the Feryman has his reservations, but we have to go with his decision, after all its him whose responsiblke for the passengers safety.

A week tomorrow is our last day and sitting on the boat coming across the Kyle I looked around and realised how much I'm going to miss the scenery and John and Stuart as well. I've been lucky to work with both of them.

A few photies:

Smoo Cave

Cathedral Stack (name not liked by locals yjey prefer Stac Clos Kervaig) at Kervaig Bay

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cranes on the Cape

Next Spring or early Summer you will be able to see on the Beeb Cape Wrath and the road I drive along. Unfortunately I won't be on it (or fortunately you may be thinking!). The reason is that the Coast team were here for 2 days filming last week with Nick Crane leading the way sans umbrella not even on his rucksack! I had a full busload of people and mentioned that Coast were here and one of the ladies asked if Neil Oliver was filming-I replied No it was Nick Crane and I heard a collective sigh of disappointment from all the women on the bus. Sorry Nick but you do have a supporter in John the Light who said that if Neil Oliver had turned up he would have cut off his hair and burnt his handbag!!

The rest of the week was very quiet and there is an autumnal feel in the air almost like Summer has finished. The nights are drawing in really quickly and our days are almost the same length as back home. By next week they will be shorter I think the way things are going. Its Bank Holiday today but it seems that its a normal day here.

Tom has come up to join us today for a couple of days so will the city boy cope with the temptations of rural Scotland? We are off onto the Cape tomorrow for a walk cos we haven't done this yet as I'm always walking and when I'm not its cos the ferry has stopped so there is no way across the Kyle.

Went to the pub on Saturday night for a drink and walked in and the Villa were on Sky. Don't think Jo was too impressed neither was I as Liverpool scored as we walked in. Half time and a strategic retreat was needed for domestic harmony and lower blood pressure!!!

the last few days

22^nd August-

Weather stopped play at the Cape over the weekend so we had time to explore as tourists. The wind was creating some big waves on the Kyle, not good if you are in a small boat. So we decided to walk from Kinlochbervie up to Sandwood Bay – the back door to the Cape. The path followed  a cart track across heather clad,  peaty land dotted with small lochs then across green grasslands of sand dunes dropping steeply down onto a wide sandy beach. The weather was reasonably kind to us with heavy showers followed by windy blasts, to dry us out, and even the sun to brighten the journey. Cape Wrath Lighthouse could  just be seen high up in the distance , the brief patches of sunlight catching the white paint. As we reached the beach the sea stack known as the Hedsman came into view with some wild water foaming around its base. Gannets  fishing just off shore did not seem bothered by the wind. Sandwood Bay is a viewpoint stop for the passengers on the Cape buses and peering through binoculars  we were able to just make out the roadway down from the lighthouse. The story goes that the beach is haunted as figures have been seen crossing the beach but  leave no footprints in the sand! This is one of Stuart's favourite stories and he embelishes this, Private Fraiser style for his passengers.  There is no track or pathway up to the Cape. It is eight miles of rough walking, 'keeping the sea on your right', to reach the tip of the Cape. Perhaps thats a challenge  for another day, especially a day when the ferry and the buses are running so there is an easier return journey.

We treated ourselves to a late lunch at Tarbet, smoked salmon and smoked mackeral salad with a glass of nicely chilled white wine. Our conversation with the young waitress was interesting as she is trying to get into Veterinary Nursing. She had a place on the course in York but has trouble finding a host practice. Unfortunately I don't know anyone up there but I did leave my contact in case I could help with anything further south. It brought home just how difficult the long distances are for the young. She has been across to Roggart Vets , the only practice in the area,  nearly two hours away. She has made contact with the nurse there and has access to the situations vacant page of the VN Times so lets hope something turns up soon. She has been  working  the summer in the family business and during  last winter she vaccinated fish on the nearby fish farms.

Sunday saw us driving east to find the better weather at Thurso and John O'Groats. Thurso was rather unispiring but it did have a Tesco and we could purchase a Sunday paper for the first time in weeks! (In Durness we have to make do with a Saturday paper. ) The most northerly point of the mainland, or the end of the road, is quite an interesting place. Rather better than Lands End with opportunity to walk around a headland to the lighthouse, take a trip out to Orkney and the usual mixture of craft and souvenier shops. Parking is always free in Scotland and the toilet facilities are maintained and clean unlike the majority of the  tourist spots further south. Of course Dunnett Head is technically the most northerly point, which is wild and barren, very windy and has another  lighthouse. The view point gave the direction of Cape Wrath but the far distance was obscured by the clouds in the west. The  Castle of Mey is reallly worth a visit, the estate has marketed itself rather like a very mini Chatsworth but at a reasonable price.  The cafe was very nice and served delicious simple food. The guided tour of the house was informative and it was really interesting to see a castle as a home. The Queeen Mother must have been a very  sensible, if a bit formidable,   lady  with good values and also quite frugal. There was little unecessary wastage in her life. The kitchen and dinning room facilities were very simple and still get used a week every August by Prince Charles when he stays at the castle. The kitchen fridge was purchased in 1959 and is still in working order so in use today. HRH has continued his grandmothers link with the area, attending the Highland Gathering, and breeding Caithness Beef. He also sends a  home baked Christmas cake  to the local primary school every year decorated by the castle staff . Her corgis were much loved and  very spoilt but they were not permitted in her bedroom and had to sleep on the stone stairs outside her door. The walled gardens are spectacular in their simplicity, the smell from the climbing roses was beautiful and the whole siteincluding the vegetable patch had a cottage garden feel to it.

24^th August-

Last night we dined off the fat of the land! As payment for my gardening services on the veg patch  and the very technical job of collecting Lupin seeds, I took delivery of a couple of very beautiful lobsters. I am sorry to say that they were dispatched using the  traditional and local method , now rather frowned upon by the RSPCA. I took instruction from James and I have to say they passed quietly enough. Along with some 'tatties' from the croft,  lettuce from the patch and some garlic butter  mayonnaise a tasty meal, very much appreciated. We have been well looked after this week with a couple of fine Mackeral on Wednesday evening. James was rather scathing about this as he uses Mackeral to bait his lobster pots , not to eat.  I suppose if one has cake why bother with bread?

Today started as wet and drizzely so once Paul had left for work I had another baking session. I seem to have mastered the vagaries of the oven and applying a few basic principles of science concerning the tranference and conduction of heat,  can now manage two types of cookie mix and even a batch of fruit scones. It is rather labour intensive only cooking six at a time but when it is miserable outside not a real problem.

In true Highland style the skies brightened  at mid day to allow a wander along the beach. The midges were  about again today  so sensible to avoid the hills and the loch. Paul has been using his midge hat the last couple of evenings down on the ferry landing and when James mowed the lawns last night he raised a persistent cloud of the little darlings all over the croft. James and Elspeth  have family visiting over the bank holiday weekend so he needed his 'land' to look tidy. I felt that was quite an English attitude but in the interests of international relations decided to keep that thought  to myself. He is planning to mow the croft after ' 1^st September'  so that will be a day to keep away and the windows closed! 

Castle of Mey

 

 

 

 

 

 John O'Groats

 

 Old Shoremore - we are still getting good days!

Bad Wind Again

Well, its amazing how everything reverts to normal after being away. After 4 days of driving loads of tourists I was well and truly back in the swing of things, most of the passengers were Italians and French so my home made translation cards came in handy and surprisingly they worked and I even spoke a little bit of French!! (Allo Allo style though). If you don't know the word just say the English word in a French accent, if that doesn't work then shout in English. This has been successful and usually results in the German passengers sitting upright and listening intently!

Had a couple of howlers the other day when giving my commentary:

When asked what the 2 islands on the horizon were I replied Harris and Tweed and we all laughed as I corrected Tweed to Lewis, if I hadn't I might have got away with it.

About 5 minutes later I pointed out Sandwood Bay on the horizon and called it Sandown Park for some reason- too much malt!

Wednesday night was a good night to be English in Scotland although we lost our TV signal as England equalised however this was soon returned. Thursday was an even better day to be English in Scotland however I didn't mention the game, however I'm certain that this would not have been the case if the result had been the other way round. Och, well you cannae win all the time!

Today we woke up to a bad case of wind and as a result the ferry was cancelled so a day off for me and the forecast is bad for tomorrow as well, so Jo and I went for a walk to Sandwood Bay, about 8 miles return, and then off to lunch at a little fish restaurant overlooking a wild sea. We were there alone which was a bonus as this place is usually crammed and tables not always available.

Only another 20 days left then the a holiday trip home.

A couple of photos:

The Herdsman Stack
Sandwood Bay
Waiting for a lift home-Rush hour 5pm Friday

 

 

 

 

 

 

return to work!

Durness part 2!

13^th August-

The glorious 12^th saw us returning to Durness.  It is a relatively easy journey up here if you fly! It still took us three hours to drive beyond Inverness but less tiring than our first journey. We stopped at the large Tesco just outside Inverness Airport and having raided the shelves for our own supplies called at the Click and Collect point for Elspeth and James. So with a fully laden car we treked north leaving the now golden corn fields of the lowlands, following the single track road up into the harsher rockier landscape of the far north. We mentally ticked off the four lochs , Shin, Merkel, More and Stack. We passed through  the estate of the Duke of Westminster spying his black telephone box, painted to match those in the city of Westminster. The weather seemed to brighten  as we rounded the corner to see the view of the Kyle as blue as always and the darker hills of the Cape beyond. We spotted a familiar blue van as we slowed to allow a lorry and trailer loaded with fleeces draw out onto the main road. It was James who had been helping with the shearing of the sheep and the collection of the fleeces for market. There was much grinning, waving and tooting as we were allowed to pass and we finally arrived at the caravan. The dogs rushed out to greet us noisily , not barking but squeaking, whinning, and grovelling to welcome us back into the pack. Such a riot that Elspeth came out to find out what all the noise was about! It was good to be back and it almost seemed as if we had never left.

There is a definite smell of Autumn in the air and the light although still bright draws in earlier. We actually saw the street lights come on last night. The long croft grass is turning to a golden colour and the flowers have lost their vibrant colours. James has a very ancient tractor sat at the gate to the croft so I suspect mowing will take place soon.  They collect the grasses for winter silage. The campsite is very busy, lots of motor homes. A  'convoy' of twelve camper vans left this morning – all Italian. We had been warned about the Italians on tour but it had to be seen to be believed. A great chain of white snails creeping out along the coast towards the east. Unfortunately that was the direction Eslpeth and I needed to go but as luck would have it  and we managed to pass them all safely at Rispond Bay, where they had drawn in to see and photograph the stunning view. I met them on my return on the short stretch of dual track road at Hope so they were not a desperate problem , but there will be others !

 I walked along the cliff and down onto the beach and all seems as it should be. The Eider duck has raised her brood and the chicks are now noisy young adults hanging  out in large  groups forming darks rafts on the sea. The cormorants seem to have left and the demanding young gull fledglings have completed their flying hours and  moved out to sea. The thistles are out in full bloom and the cliff grass is still dotted with vivid blue harebells and white daisies. The rocks still form dark shapes on the golden sand and the sea is still a crystal blue although with a hint of darkness, perhaps not as mediteranean as in July. I suspect the chance of a swim has passed.

Fiona – one of Elspeth's Highland cows has just calved this evening. We wandered down the road in the evening light to see the shaky black youngster standing up looking very suprised and not exactly sure where the milk bar was! Their bull Graham is of extremely  good lineage and he is away at the moment on his all inclusive holiday. I have met Graham on my wanderings around the lochs behind the village and he is a good looking black Highland with a ring through his nose. He seems to have passed his colouring on to his offspring as Fiona is a dun colour. James is unsure of the sex of the new beast , that will have to wait for a couple of days as she is a protective mother.

We had some of the new season potatoes from the croft for tea this evening – beautiful nutty and sweet. Apparently somewhere in the patch James has grown some Shetlands which are Purply black in colour – look forward to those!