22nd August-
Weather stopped play at the Cape over the weekend so we had time to explore as tourists. The wind was creating some big waves on the Kyle, not good if you are in a small boat. So we decided to walk from Kinlochbervie up to Sandwood Bay – the back door to the Cape. The path followed a cart track across heather clad, peaty land dotted with small lochs then across green grasslands of sand dunes dropping steeply down onto a wide sandy beach. The weather was reasonably kind to us with heavy showers followed by windy blasts, to dry us out, and even the sun to brighten the journey. Cape Wrath Lighthouse could just be seen high up in the distance , the brief patches of sunlight catching the white paint. As we reached the beach the sea stack known as the Hedsman came into view with some wild water foaming around its base. Gannets fishing just off shore did not seem bothered by the wind. Sandwood Bay is a viewpoint stop for the passengers on the Cape buses and peering through binoculars we were able to just make out the roadway down from the lighthouse. The story goes that the beach is haunted as figures have been seen crossing the beach but leave no footprints in the sand! This is one of Stuart's favourite stories and he embelishes this, Private Fraiser style for his passengers. There is no track or pathway up to the Cape. It is eight miles of rough walking, 'keeping the sea on your right', to reach the tip of the Cape. Perhaps thats a challenge for another day, especially a day when the ferry and the buses are running so there is an easier return journey.
We treated ourselves to a late lunch at Tarbet, smoked salmon and smoked mackeral salad with a glass of nicely chilled white wine. Our conversation with the young waitress was interesting as she is trying to get into Veterinary Nursing. She had a place on the course in York but has trouble finding a host practice. Unfortunately I don't know anyone up there but I did leave my contact in case I could help with anything further south. It brought home just how difficult the long distances are for the young. She has been across to Roggart Vets , the only practice in the area, nearly two hours away. She has made contact with the nurse there and has access to the situations vacant page of the VN Times so lets hope something turns up soon. She has been working the summer in the family business and during last winter she vaccinated fish on the nearby fish farms.
Sunday saw us driving east to find the better weather at Thurso and John O'Groats. Thurso was rather unispiring but it did have a Tesco and we could purchase a Sunday paper for the first time in weeks! (In Durness we have to make do with a Saturday paper. ) The most northerly point of the mainland, or the end of the road, is quite an interesting place. Rather better than Lands End with opportunity to walk around a headland to the lighthouse, take a trip out to Orkney and the usual mixture of craft and souvenier shops. Parking is always free in Scotland and the toilet facilities are maintained and clean unlike the majority of the tourist spots further south. Of course Dunnett Head is technically the most northerly point, which is wild and barren, very windy and has another lighthouse. The view point gave the direction of Cape Wrath but the far distance was obscured by the clouds in the west. The Castle of Mey is reallly worth a visit, the estate has marketed itself rather like a very mini Chatsworth but at a reasonable price. The cafe was very nice and served delicious simple food. The guided tour of the house was informative and it was really interesting to see a castle as a home. The Queeen Mother must have been a very sensible, if a bit formidable, lady with good values and also quite frugal. There was little unecessary wastage in her life. The kitchen and dinning room facilities were very simple and still get used a week every August by Prince Charles when he stays at the castle. The kitchen fridge was purchased in 1959 and is still in working order so in use today. HRH has continued his grandmothers link with the area, attending the Highland Gathering, and breeding Caithness Beef. He also sends a home baked Christmas cake to the local primary school every year decorated by the castle staff . Her corgis were much loved and very spoilt but they were not permitted in her bedroom and had to sleep on the stone stairs outside her door. The walled gardens are spectacular in their simplicity, the smell from the climbing roses was beautiful and the whole siteincluding the vegetable patch had a cottage garden feel to it.
24th August-
Last night we dined off the fat of the land! As payment for my gardening services on the veg patch and the very technical job of collecting Lupin seeds, I took delivery of a couple of very beautiful lobsters. I am sorry to say that they were dispatched using the traditional and local method , now rather frowned upon by the RSPCA. I took instruction from James and I have to say they passed quietly enough. Along with some 'tatties' from the croft, lettuce from the patch and some garlic butter mayonnaise a tasty meal, very much appreciated. We have been well looked after this week with a couple of fine Mackeral on Wednesday evening. James was rather scathing about this as he uses Mackeral to bait his lobster pots , not to eat. I suppose if one has cake why bother with bread?
Today started as wet and drizzely so once Paul had left for work I had another baking session. I seem to have mastered the vagaries of the oven and applying a few basic principles of science concerning the tranference and conduction of heat, can now manage two types of cookie mix and even a batch of fruit scones. It is rather labour intensive only cooking six at a time but when it is miserable outside not a real problem.
In true Highland style the skies brightened at mid day to allow a wander along the beach. The midges were about again today so sensible to avoid the hills and the loch. Paul has been using his midge hat the last couple of evenings down on the ferry landing and when James mowed the lawns last night he raised a persistent cloud of the little darlings all over the croft. James and Elspeth have family visiting over the bank holiday weekend so he needed his 'land' to look tidy. I felt that was quite an English attitude but in the interests of international relations decided to keep that thought to myself. He is planning to mow the croft after ' 1st September' so that will be a day to keep away and the windows closed!
Castle of Mey
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